The ornate mantis shrimps that swim in Thailand‘s Koh Chang Marine National Park look as though they can‘t possibly merge into the background of this tropical haven.
Their bodies are striped with bands of varying shades of green and gold, and black spots outlined in white provide dramatic contrasts to the mottled greens of their head. The powerful claws they use to crush molluscs are normally folded beneath the front of their body, but can be extended rapidly with enough force to break glass.
Nearby, a greenhead parrotfish in even more luminescent tones of green and aquamarine swims in search of food. As dusk falls it will tuck itself into a cave or crevice and encase itself in a cocoon of mucus. The idea, according to marine biologists, is to prevent predators from detecting its smell.
These two marine species are just two of the attractions of the island of Koh Chang, the second largest in Thailand after Phuket. It is relatively unknown compared with Phuket, partly because it is located just five kilometres offshore, near the city of Trat, not far from Thailand‘s coastal border with Cambodia.
The park‘s 47 islands vary from steep granite peaks to virtually flat, and are covered with lush green jungle. Silverleaf monkeys, hornbills, frogs and pigeons flick among the foliage, and many waterfalls tumble between rocky chasms, including lovely Than Mayom.
Beautiful beaches of white sand dot the island‘s coastline, and a variety of small hotels and bungalows are set among gardens on the beachfront or deep in the jungle. It is a beautiful and peaceful setting, particularly in the low season from June to late September, although new hotels and shops are being developed. Koh Chang is roughly 650 kilometres by air from Phuket, where life is back to normal following the tsunami which struck the Andaman Sea on Boxing Day, 2004. In fact, the Tourism Authority of Thailand says many places are better than before. "It is very clean the beaches, the roads, Patong Beach markets and Bangla Road,¡± said a spokesman. "Many hotels have taken this opportunity to renovate, whether they were damaged by the tsunami or not.¡±
Phuket‘s western coast beaches are its most stunning and isolated. Nai Han Beach, for example, is a quiet bay nestled at the foot of high hills. Its peaceful cove, sheltered from the wind by rocky headlands at either end, teems with marine life. Traditional fishing villages, some on stilts over the water, are scattered along the island‘s channels and bays, and local fishermen regularly approach visitors‘ canoes or yachts with prawns and crabs for sale.
Phuket is especially acclaimed for its seafood and wide range of fresh fruit.
Eating Thai style means sharing a number of different dishes with friends. Thais eat with a spoon and fork and take small samples from each dish as required. This allows everyone to share all the flavours of a typical Thai meal a balance of sweet, sour, salty and spicy. Steamed mussels or prawns in tamarind, green papaya salad and prawn and lemongrass soup are popular dishes. The huge range of eating places means diners can eat upmarket at restaurants serving Royal Thai cuisine, or chicken grilled under a tree by a street vendor.
Street stalls, little shops and noisy night markets stock a wide range of beachwear, sportswear, souvenirs and electronic gadgets, and Patong also has special jewellery, ethnic, art and antiques shops. Patong is hopping every night of the week. Shops and restaurants stay open late, and there‘s a wide choice of bars, clubs, lounges and cabarets.
The Thai Cultural Village is five kilometres from Phuket. Various aspects of southern Thai culture are demonstrated in the 500seat amphitheatre, including classical dance, shadow puppet shows and swordfighting.
Several airlines operate regular international flights to Phuket Airport, and the island is linked to the mainland by the 42 kilometrelong Sarasin Bridge. The bus ride from Bangkok can be gruelling, but buses leave every halfhour from the Southern Bus Terminal.
Thai fishermen have known for centuries about the lagoons, called hongs, hidden amid some of the amazing limestone outcrops of Phang Nga Bay, conveniently located between Phuket and the coastal city of Krabi, which was unaffected by the tsunami.
These pinnacles, called karsts, rise vertically as high as 300 metres above the sea. But none of the fishermen dared enter the tunnels, which were "the home of the spirits.¡±
The islands, which are now protected as the Phang Nga Bay National Marine Park, are the remnants of a coral reef formed perhaps 250 million years ago, lifted and then eroded to leave towering limestone castles in an amazing variety of haunted and beautiful shapes. Behind the outer wall of many islands is a hollow interior, worn away by water.
These chambers can be reached by canoe through arches that appear at low tide. Inside is a dark crypt, where torch lights pick out hundreds of bats. Some caverns open into natural conservatories whose sides rise almost vertically for a hundred metres or more, and are densely covered with lush, tropical vegetation. Monkeys screech to each other, and there are pond skaters, mudhopping fish and beautifully coloured kingfishers and other birds.
Nearby Coral Island and the Koh Phi Phi Islands are ideal for day trips, and their perfect waters place them among the world‘s top 10 scuba diving sites.
Half of Phi Phi was never affected by the tsunami, and the other half is slowly being rebuilt, with some new restaurants and cafes up and running.
A profusion of soft corals, large orange sea fans, black coral and long sea whips grow on the vertical walls of the karsts. In many cases the islands are fringed with gardens of hard coral, among which live hundreds of varieties of radiant tropical creatures and reef fish.
The small group of islands known as Ko Ha has a series of easily accessible caves, where divers can surface inside the island to view stalactites hanging down from the ceiling 30 metres above.
The islands in the Surin and Similan Group, about 100 kilometres to the northwest of Phuket, are completely different geologically to Phang Nga, but are equally stunning, and support some of the finest coral reefs in Thailand. The sheltered side supports hundreds of varieties of hard and soft corals, and thousands of other marine fauna, including exotic lionfish, cuttlefish, pufferfish and shrimps. Turtles lay their eggs in the fine, white sand and the islands‘ tropical forest harbours pigeons, kingfishers and peregrine falcons.
A scientific survey published in April 2005 calculated that only eight percent of the coral within Surin National Park may potentially have been lost to the tsunami. Encouragingly however, signs of coral regrowth were discovered and documented. It would appear that healthy coral reef systems such as those of Surin, can regenerate rapidly, even in the aftermath of a natural event as momentous as a tsunami.
KOH SAMUI
Koh Samui is less than half the size of Phuket. Located off Thailand‘s Gulf Coast and approximately 750 kilometres from Bangkok, it is one of three islands in the Samui archipelago. The nearest mainland city of Surrathani is 80 kilometres away.
Koh Samui has experienced dramatic growth over recent years, and as with many of Thailand‘s islands, development has been fastpaced to cope with demand from travellers.
Somehow the people have largely managed to maintain their traditions and perpetuate its original charm, and traces of oncethriving fishing communities are evident in Nathon and Maenam, for example.
The comparatively undeveloped southern part of the island is rich with natural beauty and sleepy little villages. The area is best explored on an organised tour or by hiring a local jeep or scooter.
In Koh Samui, as with most of the country, the locals‘ ability to embrace other cultures extends to their cuisine, with wideranging food options. Street carts and outdoor evening markets offer nourishing local dishes such as phat thai and fried rice, while restaurants serving Japanese, Italian, Swiss, Mexican or European dishes are common, even in more isolated villages.
The idyllic beaches and climate on Koh Samui present the perfect opportunity for a relaxing break in the sun. Chaweng Beach, with its shallow, blue water protected by a coral reef and small islands, is the largest and most actionpacked destination. South of Chaweng is Lamai Beach, which also offers a variety of accommodation, but in a more peaceful environment. There are numerous spa retreats for those in need of pampering.
The most remote beaches are found on the island‘s western and southern coasts. Traditional fishing villages such as Thong Krut Bay or Nathon Bay offer a glimpse of local life, and the sunsets at Lipa Noi Beach are spectacular.
Few visitors realise that Samui also has a wealth of Buddhist culture, ranging from ancient Buddha images to modern, colourful temples. Visitors should avoid wearing beachwear or revealing clothing, and behave with respect in temple grounds.
The bestknown temple is Wat Phra Yai, home of the Big Buddha. The 12metre high golden image is visible from several kilometres away.
Other worthwhile attractions include the tiny islets of Ang Thong National Marine Park, situated to the east of Koh Samui. Around 42 islands make up the park, which is formed largely from limestone. Many of the islands have secluded beaches, coves and caves, while others rise from the sea as dramatic walls of rock hundreds of metres high.
The islands are surrounded by coral reefs with rewarding dives, and many also have tropical forest and provide a home for langur monkeys, otters, egrets, sea eagles, tortoises, sea turtles and pythons.
The island of Mae Ko is known for its beach and Thale Noi, an inland, saltwater lake that is mysteriously replenished through an undiscovered outlet to the sea.
Known to Thai people as Ang Thong, or Golden Bowl, this green lagoon gave its name to the archipelago. The climb from the seashore to the edge of the lake takes 40 minutes and has rewarding views.
Koh Samui‘s natural waterfalls also warrant a visit, and the most beautiful are located in the southwestern corner at Na Muang. The nearby Butterfly Garden is also worth a visit for its multitude of vividly coloured tropical butterflies. Slightly more unusual attractions include the Monkey Theatre in Bophut and the Samui Snake Farm.
