As I have sailed with MSC Cruises into Naples on a number of occasions I have to say that I am one of those who love it! You have to live and breathe this city to discover its many surprises, as it‘s not somewhere you can stroll with a map to check out the sights, perhaps because of its chaotic nature.

Life in Naples is lived on the edge. Its inhabitants go about their day as they seem to have for centuries, blissfully unaware of the rest of the world. There is something intrinsic about the people, they are passionate, yet a little rugged. Perhaps living in the shadow of Vesuvius makes them explosive.

The streets of Naples stretch back from the Bay of Naples in a ferment of noise and bustle. Beware of the motorbikes and reversing cars on the footpath zigzagging their way out of traffic jams, and just to be safe, put only a few dollars in a wallet, and be prepared for the city‘s seething streets.

It is here that we discovered the folklore of Puncinella, the theatrical rascal who stole the pasta by night, and the colourful folk dances and songs that we know as classic Italian, which all grew out of the passion for life that Naples exudes.

We couldn‘t help but be caught up in this passion, as we ate in an ancient pizzeria with rough­hewn walls, or shared a glass of wine with locals in a tiny bar in a cobbled alley and discussed the All Blacks. We walked up the hill to the left of the port to explore the fort and find the perfect spot for watching people as they promenaded through the picturesque Spaccanapoli quarter of the centro storico (historic centre) of Naples. The Grand Palazzi, baroque architecture and famous churches are reminders of a once­prosperous past.

A popular choice for many cruising passengers is to take the ship‘s excursion to Pompeii. This Roman city was buried in the lava of Vesuvius in 79, in some places to a depth of nine metres. It‘s an extraordinary experience to walk through the city and imagine life as it was in the first century.

If Capri appeals, hop on a ferry right by the cruise ship and take the 45­minute journey to this glamorous island. The town spills down the hillside on one side of the bay, and on the other is Anacapri, with its tiny houses perched above the sea to explore. The Fontelina Beach Club is the place to be, and is accessed via a pathway near the Hotel Punta Tragara. Or take a boat to the Grotta Azzurra, or the Blue Grotto, with its dazzling, sapphire­blue water, before returning to Naples.

My favourite excursion is to Sorrento. We got there after a 30­minute ferry ride along the Amalfi Coast. A memorable lunch with friends high above the tiny quaint village of Sorrento remains as a crystal­clear snapshot of this magical coastline. Our table overlooked the Bay of Naples on one side, and the Gulf of Salerno on the other as we were perched on a cool, tiled veranda in the searing heat overlooking the white houses surrounded by lemon trees.

The owner, who doubled as cook and waiter, served a simple meal of sardines prepared three different ways, and we soaked up the marinade with crusty bread. We enjoyed a crisp glass of wine followed by the ubiquitous limoncello, made locally of course. When it‘s time to depart Naples and cruise south to Sicily, remember this travel tip. Don‘t leave it too late to return to the ship after indulging in the daily antipasto lovingly prepared and presented by the white­aproned owner of the ancient restaurant we had just discovered. Believe me, it‘s a tricky business to weave through the traffic in the ancient streets of Naples, heading in the vague direction of the ship. As we made a last desperate run for the ship, we found the gangway had been removed and the only way aboard was via the cargo entrance. Visiting Napoli is always chaotic, right to the bitter end.