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Ocean Destinations  2005
 
 
CHARTER BOATING Cruising the Pacific
Ivor Wilkins laps up the laid­back lifestyle
By:Ivor Wilkins
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The Story is about: Tahiti
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As darkness gathered, the warm, tropical air caressed our bare arms and legs. Replete from an excellent dinner served on the open third deck, we sipped our wine and watched as the full moon rose behind the jagged silhouette of Moorea‘s famous Tohiea peak.

The only sound was the occasional heavy plop of a leaping fish and the low murmur of insects in the palms along the shore. What about a movie¬suggested our host. Out came the catalogue of extensive on­board offerings, a selection was made, and the next thing we were sitting with our feet propped on the deck railing, replenished wine glasses at our sides, and watching an open­air movie projected onto a wide screen erected on the deck below.

Earlier in the day, some of the guests had gone scuba diving on the outside of the reef, while another party had taken the custom­built landing craft for a picnic on the beach. A couple had stayed on board, sunbathing on the deck loungers and swimming in the on­board pool. At the end of the day we had all retired to our suites for pre­dinner showers or baths, then gathered for drinks and dinner on deck three. The after­dinner movie was a spur­of­themoment suggestion which perfectly capped off a sun­drenched day in Tahiti. To watch the movie outdoors was a bonus. We could just as easily have retired to the on­board theatre located next to the gymnasium on deck two, but nothing could match the experience of lounging in the moonlight, surrounded by Moorea‘s dark mountains.

We were on board Flinders, a 50 metre five­deck exploration motoryacht which entered the international charter fleet in 2004. Originally built as a Royal Australian Navy survey vessel, Flinders was comprehensively rebuilt in New Zealand, to the extent that she was to all intents and purposes a brand new superyacht.

Now furnished in the style of a luxury boutique hotel and comprehensively equipped with watersport toys and entertainment systems, Flinders and her crew of 12 were back in commission, albeit of a totally different nature. Guest accommodation includes the master stateroom on deck three, which comprises two bathrooms, a lounge and dressing room, with an adjoining study and library. Four guest suites are on deck two, and the movie theatre can convert to an additional guest suite if required, making a total guest complement of 12.

Enormous tanks and storage space mean Flinders can be self­sufficient in isolated places for long periods, making her perfect for expedition work in remote regions. Just as easily, however, she can provide an elegant base for the more sybaritic pleasures of a cruise in the tropical islands of French Polynesia, or anywhere else that the heart desires.

In the world of chartering, the spectrum covers an enormous range of styles, sizes, levels of luxury and service and possibilities. Flinders would fit comfortably into the luxury side of the spectrum, but not nearly at its extreme end. If we are talking the likes of the monster yachts sometimes seen in James Bond movies, the going charter rate can exceed US$1 million a week. And, just before anyone reaches for their cheque book, be aware that that is the base rate. In addition, the charterer will usually have to pay for the fuel, food, wine and drinks for guests and crew, local taxes, pilotage and harbour dues, helicopter rides, water, electricity, personal laundry, satellite telephone and e­mail charges. Those who may want to tie up in Cannes to rub shoulders with the Hollywood set during the famous film festival in May can expect to fork out a small fortune for dock space. Crew tips alone after a week‘s cruise can run to tens of thousands of dollars. Keeping up with these particular Joneses is not for the faint­hearted. On the other hand, a wide range of more affordable charter options is available. Most popular are the bareboat options, where a group of friends or a family can rent a yacht in a desirable location and go off on their own for a week or more. Several large companies, such as the Moorings and Sunsail, operate charter fleets in the Pacific, Caribbean, Mediterranean or Aegean islands.

These are generally very polished operations that offer well­designed, purposebuilt yachts in sizes from about 10 metres to 16 metres to suit particular requirements and budgets.

The charter companies will often supply a list of provisions on offer, and by utilising this option boaties can arrive at the dock and step aboard their yacht, fully provisioned and ready to go. Of course one of the pleasures of exploring new destinations is sampling the local food, so going to the markets becomes part of the fun. However, the convenience of having all the basics on board on arrival is hard to beat. It‘s all about maximising the pleasure and minimising the effort. With charter fleets based in key locations around the world, one can in effect savour the joys of ocean cruising without having to do the long sea voyages.

Some sailing experience is required, but most companies will supply a skipper or crew to assist if necessary. Prices vary according to the type of yacht, the time of year and the destination. But, as an example, a 12 metre yacht for a nice midwinter escape in Tonga for four people for a week, with semi­provisioning, would cost about US$5000.

For more competitive spirits, a combination of cruising and racing might appeal. The Australian company Mariner Boating organises charter regattas in Tonga, Tahiti and Croatia each year that are proving popular. This is not cut­throat America‘s Cup­type yacht racing. Competitors race in standard charter yachts and not much gets in the way of cocktail hour.

In fact the organiser, Trevor Joyce, boasts that these are regattas where the lay days (nonracing days) exceed the race days. Competition is not the sole attraction. In fact it‘s probably not even the main attraction,he says. On the lay days between each of the passage races the opportunity exists to visit a pearl or vanilla farm, snorkel the turquoise lagoons, scuba dive the drop­offs or just sit back and savour Polynesian culture and cuisine with its distinctive French and Asian influences.He was talking in this instance about the Tahitian regatta, but the same applies for all their events.

Those who want more intense competition can charter a yacht in Australia‘s Whitsunday Islands for the renowned Hamilton Island Race Week. They will rub shoulders with some of yacht racing‘s superstars, yet will not be embarrassed by competing out of their league. With one of the charter yachts from the local companies, they will be sailing against other competitors in similar yachts.

Everybody gets to share in the fabulous scenery, the great sailing conditions and the hectic social functions along the honky­tonk waterfront bars and restaurants. The really good part is that although boaties will not be at the front of the fleet with all the big guns, on a fun­per­dollar basis they will probably be way out ahead.

For a complete change of pace, consider the more novelty­type charters. Auckland, for example, offers the enjoyable experience of sailing on real classics like the launch Lady Gay, or the beautifully restored Arcturus, a wooden pre­war yacht with the added cachet that movie star Gene Kelly was a former owner.

The more adventurous might consider leaving the well­beaten track of the tropics and head instead for remoter regions. In New Zealand, the Marlborough Sounds provide some glorious scenery. A number of charter options are available, from small, bareboat cruisers to luxury yachts like the 30 metre Pacific Eagle, where the knowledgeable owner and skipper will cater to guest‘s every requirement.

The truly adventurous can wander even further afield. Charter yachts are even available for expeditions to the Antarctic Ocean. These generally depart from Ushuaia in Argentina, the southernmost city in the world. The Antarctic is not for the faint­hearted, and it would be wise to consult widely and sign up with a very experienced crew on a well­found vessel.

Probably the best­known of these is a former Whitbread Round the World Race sailor, Skip Novak, whose yacht Pelagic has made many visits to Antarctica. Skip is an accomplished mountaineer as well as being a seasoned yachtsman, and has led many climbs to remote peaks in Antarctica. While this kind of chartering is far removed from the luscious brochure images of turquoise waters and brightly coloured cocktails, those lucky enough to visit Antarctica will attest that it is a truly lifechanging experience.

An independent broker may be useful for those who want help in selecting exactly the right kind of charter holiday to suit their particular purpose. Companies like Sail Connections in Auckland are specialists who know the charter fleets and individual boats down to the last detail. They can arrange a charter holiday on anything from a floating palace to a modest nine metre bareboat. With a wide range of options available, chartering can be tailored to suit individual requirements, and offers the pleasures of hassle­free sailing and boating holidays without the pain of maintenance and the expense of ownership.

In our busy lives, where the opportunity to sail across oceans to new destinations is out of reach for most people, the ability to jet in for a week in the Caribbean or some other exotic place provides a realistic and very attractive alternative.


 
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